Le Chemin de Robert Louis Stevenson
May 2006
In September of 1878, Robert Louis Stevenson walked some 240km in southeastern France. To carry his equipment, he bought a donkey whom he named Modestine. For ten days, he walked through this very rural (now as then) landscape. When he was done, he wrote up his travels in a journal he called 'Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes'.
Although the book may not be that well-known, many people have heard a quotation from it:
Walkers today still walk this walk, which in the last 20 years has been waymarked as an official Grand Randonee (long-distance path), the GR70. In my quest to walk through as many European countries as possible before my legs give out, I determined to go this spring rather than waiting until an autumn opportunity (matching Stevenson's timing) presented itself.
This trip is starting out with about as much uncertainty as the last couple have - now that we're just a month out, it is down to just Stanley and me. I had hoped we might have engaged a couple of more wanderers, especially given the expected easy pace of this trip, but we got no takers. That certainly does, on the other hand, make the logistics simpler, especially given how phlegmatic Stanley is about accommodation and sustenance.
On our walk in Spain, I lost about 10 pounds (4.5kg). One exciting aspect of this walk is that I have managed to work my weight back down to something close to that again, so I will be starting this walk at about the same weight I finished that one. Woo hoo!
And quick as that, everything changes. In the middle of April I got a contract downtown to replace someone leaving on May 5. The trip is not possible in May with that timing, so it very much looks as though I will be walking in the fall, probably by myself, assuming I go at all.
And quick as that, everything changes again. Now Corey is not leaving, and they want Guinn to be trained while I'm gone, so maybe it's back on. Kelia says she won't believe we're going until she sees us get on the plane.
The problem with this on-again, off-again business is that I have had zero time to do any practice walking - not good!
We had decided even before I got sick that we would walk to Luc without taking the official (and long) path to Le Cheylard. In the event, we walked even a bit shorter as a result of a missed turn. That put us into Luc at lunchtime, but there was apparently no commerce there at all. We tried to sleep under a tree for a while, but it was so cold with a stiff breeze that we just got up and went on. We went along the road until the trail turned off, then continued on the road all the way to Rogleton. As it turned out, we should have stayed on the road further - the trail led up (and back down, of course) a steep (of course) mountain before dropping us into La Bastide. None of the gîtes we expected were open, and we ended up staying at what apparently is the only choice at this time: L'Etoile - a pleasant hotel run virtually single-handedly by a Belgian with the improbable name of Phillipe Papademetriou. The only deal he offered was demi-pension, and we accepted with a bit of trepidation, since cash is king in this part of France, and we were cash poor at this point. We worked out that we could get a taxi to go the 30km to the nearest cash machine if worst came to worst, and decided to enjoy the evening, which we did. We had a family table with all 12-15 guests, and would have enjoyed it even more if we spoke French! Eventually one man broke down and started speaking English to us, and we had some broken communication with his group of 6 after that before getting off to bed by 22:00. |
Technical Note about the photographs: I purposefully limited myself by taking a Pentax 35mm SLR I bought on eBay for $9.95. I had only the standard 50mm lens. I shot color print film, ASA 200, and had the negatives scanned to digital by CVS. Then I used Photoshop Elements to crop, color correct, and adjust contrast and brightness. Actually, I had a point-and-shoot digital camera as well, but used it very sparingly, since it eats batteries if you leave it on.